I love castles and ghost towns and Death Valley has both. I was a little surprised to learn there is a castle in Death Valley, so I’ll start by telling you about that. It’s a little off the beaten path and you’ll truly feel like no one is around as you coast along the desert road to your destination. As you get closer you can see an oasis in the Grapevine Canyon which is located in the northern part of Death Valley. As if it’s a mirage, you’ll take a corner and find palm trees, green foliage and the tips of the castle off in the distance. Yes, nestled in that oasis is a castle that will take you back to the Roaring ’20’s and Depression ’30’s. It was a wealthy matron’s vacation home and a “man-of-mystery’s hideout. When you visit this place you will step back in time.
View into the courtyard at Scotty’s Castle in Death Valley
As you enter through the gates (above) you’ll find yourself in a courtyard. Throughout the grounds and home, everything is pretty much original….The furnishing, clothing, kitchen, rugs etc. Here’s a Reader’s Digest version I took from the National Park Service Website: “Walter Scott (below) was an accomplished horseman and eventually was engaged as one of the rough-riders for the Buffalo Bill Wild West Show.
Walter Scott aka Death Valley Scotty from National Park Service Website
Although his engagement with the show lasted for twelve years, it was only seasonal employement. When not fully engaged with the show, Scott would return to Death Valley and pick up odd jobs. His connection with the area became so well known that eventually Death Valley Scotty became his nickname. Scott left the Wild West Show after a disagreement with Buffalo Bill in 1902 and began a new profession that brought him even more fame and riches – gold prospecting. He convinced several wealthy businessmen that he had a claim to a fabulous gold mine in Death Valley. One of the investors, Mr. Johnson gave thousands of dollars to Scotty over the next several years. Unfortunately, a number of calamities prevented delivery of the gold.
Undaunted, Mr. Johnson finally decided to take a look at the gold mine on a personal tour of Death Valley. Scotty took Mr. Johnson on a grueling trek by horseback through Death Valley. He figured a few days in the desert would be too much for the city slicker whose health had been permanently by a near-fatal train accident in his youth. Surprisingly, Johnson loved Death Valley so much that he stayed nearly a month, and his health improved dramatically in the dry, sunny climate. Although he never saw Scotty’s mine, and was most certainly being swindled, Mr. Johnson did not seem to mind. He had found riches in the desert far greater than those that glitter. The two men began a lifelong friendship that would change the history of Death Valley forever. Albert Johnson bought property in Grapevine Canyon and eventually built what became known as Scotty’s Castle, which you can visit today.” Here are some historical photos I found:
That’s Scott in the middle, Mr and Ms Johnson on either side. The room is exactly like this today!
Here are some past posts on Death Valley in case you missed them:
Fire pits at The Ranch at Furnace Creek in Death Valley
Since my trip to Death Valley was a last minute adventure, I figured out where to stay while parked on an off-ramp, about 3 hours outside of Death Valley. I urge everyone to change your mind when traveling. Why go home when you can keep driving and see something new? If you have the time – than I say go go go. There are a few places to stay in Death Valley, but not many. The first place I called was The Inn at Furnace Creek which is a four diamond AAA hotel. Very nice, but expensive. They told me there was a sister property (and a more casual) about a mile down the road called The Ranch at Furnace Creek. If you read my earlier post where I describe my fashionista tendencies when traveling – a wardrobe that consists of holy jeans, men’s white t-shirts and sneakers, I figured casual might be a little better. Besides, I’m in Death Valley – one of the only places where boots and heels just don’t make sense. With that said, I skidded out of the fancy schmancy place and drove over to The Ranch. The second I drove up, I knew this is where I wanted to stay.
Entrance at The Ranch at Furnace CreekGeneral Store at The Rance at Furnace Creek
First, not only is it a hotel/ranch, there’s a General Store, gas burning fire pits out front, a few restaurants and a Salon. Everything you need in one place. Oh, and they have horses you can ride. The Ranch has been in operation since 1933 – and here is what their website says about this charming place to stay: “Hear the clatter of horse-drawn wagons as they roll through the Ranch and bring you back to the Old West. Stop off at the Corkscrew Saloon for a cool drink and a game of darts. Ride a horse, take a hike or challenge your kids to a game of horseshoes. Visit the General Store for a quick snack and some great gifts. Check out the antique stagecoaches, mining tools and steam locomotive at the Borax Museum. As you wander around the western-themed grounds, you’ll feel like you’ve been transported back to the 1800’s when this site was established as a working ranch. Yet, you’ll enjoy the amenities of modern civilization, like quiet, recently refurbished rooms, tennis courts, a children’s playground and the National Park Service Visitor’s Center – which is just a stone’s throw away.”
Sign in front of the General Store at The Ranch at Furnace Creek
Horses having dinner before their sunset ride
There is also a spring fed swimming pool, the world’s lowest golf course (214 feet below sea level) I stayed in one of the standard rooms and loved it. They also have cabins and deluxe rooms.
The other part I really enjoyed was the antique outdoor museum with carridges (some photos are below).
After watching the sunset I got back to my room around 7:30. From there I could walk up to the restaurants, have dinner, walk around the General Store and head back to my room.
Another quick note – the stars were AMAZING that night. (So if you’re there, don’t forget to look up!) For more information on The Furnace Creek Resorts: http://www.furnacecreekresort.com/lodging-295.html
Outdoor museum at The RanchOutdoor museum at The Ranch
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Here are some past posts on Death Valley in case you missed them:
Inverted photo taken at Badwater in Death Valley, California
If you love salt like I do…then Badwater is the place to go. Also, it’s the lowest point in North America – 282 feet below sea level to be exact.
That’s me jumping at Badwater!!!
To get to Badwater you take a back road that is located off 190. You won’t have any cell phone reception and you’ll feel like you are out in the middle of nowhere. In fact, I’m not even sure I saw a car the entire time I was driving (until I reached the parking lot). The scenery is beautiful, mountains, desert, and then, stretching out in front of you is this vast white ocean of salt. It’s quite spectacular. As you pull into the parking lot you’ll see a small “pond” of water and a wooden deck.
View from the parking lot out over to the observation deck at Bad Water in Death Valley
Here is a photo a little closer:
View in Badwater salt beds in Death Valley, CaliforniaMe standing by Badwater sign in Death Valley – don’t forget a hat!
I thought that was pretty cool, but what was even more impressive was over to the left of the observation deck. Where it stops, you’ll see people walking out over the packed down layers of salt. (photo below)
Walk out over the salt beds in Badwater in Death Valley, California
So how did they come up with the name Badwater? The early travelers came across a spring. I’m sure it was a scorcher and everyone was thirsty. They say the horses wouldn’t drink the water which is when they discovered it was a thick, salty liquid. Obviously undrinkable, they gave the area its name – Badwater. Badwater is about 18 miles south of Furnace Creek where I stayed. Also, if you remember our trip to Dante’s View where I showed you the vast ocean of salt beds that stretch out in front of you. Badwater is included in part of that view. https://photogirltravels.com/2013/04/19/death-valley-dantes-view/
When you are driving back, you can take a one-way road called Artists Drive. I did a really stupid thing and I had 3/4 of a tank gas when I headed off to Badwater (badgirl!) I was pretty sure I had enough gas to drive along Artists Drive, but in Death Valley, you don’t want to take chance. So here’s a quick tip. Anytime you see a gas station, fill up. Regardless of how much gas you have. There are only very few places to get gas and an 18 mile drive can take an hour.
Next I’ll show you where I stayed – Yes, we’re off to the Ranch!
A couple of quick tips: First, bring a hat. Second, consider wearing a light, long sleeved shirt to keep your skin protected. I know everyone loves the look of a Coppertone tan but bronzer can be just as nice (and your skin will stay younger looking…longer) Seriously, you don’t want to mess around with the intensity of the sun in Death Valley. It’s harsh!
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If you’d like to purchase a print to remind you of this beautiful area, please click on “Contact”. My photography is printed on aluminum. Utilizing an advanced process which infuses dyes directly into the metal, the colors and saturation are really amazing. In addition, your print will be displayed using mount blocks which float the image ½ inch off the wall.
Zabriskie Point was the first place I stopped when I arrived in Death Valley. Many of the sites require you to drive down long, dusty roads to your destination. Zabriskie Point is located on the 190, in fact, you can see the parking lot from the road. Once you park, you walk up a fairly steep hill to the look-out point. It’s pretty impressive as you cast your view out over ripples and ripples of rock. I did a little research to see how these rocks were formed and here’s what I found.
In Death Valley, rainfall is extremely rare, but when it happens it’s intense. With so little vegetation (and soil), when water reaches the ground, there is nothing to absorb the rainfall. So during Death Valley’s rain showers, water hits the surface and immediately begins to rush down the steep slopes, sweeping along particles of loosened mud. The rate of erosion can be incredible! Tiny rills are quickly carved into the soft mudstone. (I had no idea but a rill is a narrow and shallow incision into topsoil layers -I should call this Teacher Girl Travels 😉 Anyway, the more water in the downpour, the more rills are needed to carry the water away. Rills cut deeper to form gullys. And that’s how you get these beautiful ripples (that’s my non-technical term).
Zabriskie Point in Death Valley looking back at the parking lot
In the photo above you can see the parking lot off in the distance. There is a bit of a hike to the top of the hill, but I honestly don’t remember it being that difficult. (Although looking at this phot my car looks like the size of an ant) I would try to visit Zabriskie Point either in the morning or at night when it’s cooler. Next we’re going to visit Badwater which is the lowest point in North America! Please Follow Me and you’ll get an email update as soon as I post it. Cheers!
If you’d like to purchase a print to remind you of this beautiful area, please click on “Contact”. My photography is printed on aluminum. Utilizing an advanced process which infuses dyes directly into the metal, the colors and saturation are really amazing. In addition, your print will be displayed using mount blocks which float the image ½ inch off the wall.
Dante’s View out over the salt beds in Death Valley, California
The terrain in Death Valley is so dramatically different depending on which road you take. One of the sites I would highly recommend is called Dante’s View. The road that leads you to Black Mountain is just off highway 190. The first part of the drive is flat as you drive along a ribbon of road that is carved along the desert floor. As you get closer, you start gaining altitude, curving this way and that to the top of this majestic mountain. I did this drive around 7:00am, before my first cup of coffee. (Apparently coffee is an urban legend in Death Valley, before 8am) Pathetically sipping a warm diet Pepsi which I found in the back of my car I braved it to the top. When I arrived I was the only one there and it was surreal. What you see in front of you are the salt beds spanning out in front of you, which look like a vast, sparkling ocean. Quick note – although it was warm down below, it was freezing that morning – the wind was blowing and I literally thought it might blow my camera out of my hands! You may want to keep a coat or hoodie in the car just in case.
When you arrive at the top you can walk around this large parking lot and look at the views. If you’re planning your day consider the following. If it’s really hot, this is a great place to visit in the middle of the day (as it will be a lot cooler) Also, if you want the perfect place for the sunset, you should schedule this drive for later in the day (your smart phone will tell you what time the sunset is – allow for about 30-45 minutes to get from the 190 to the top of the mountain)
There was also a path that leads from the parking lot (note photo above) that would give you an even better view, if you’re brave enough to try it.
Next I’ll take you to Zabriskie Point which is absolutely beautiful. Click to follow and I’ll send you my post direct to your email.
If you’d like to purchase a print to remind you of this beautiful area, please click on “Contact”. My photography is printed on aluminum. Utilizing an advanced process which infuses dyes directly into the metal, the colors and saturation are really amazing. In addition, your print will be displayed using mount blocks which float the image ½ inch off the wall.
Back road in Death Valley taken at sunset heading to a Ghost Town
I was on my way back from a road trip to San Diego, heading up from the city of Ramona. Ramona is probably not a “must-see” city but my amazing roommate from college lives there with her equally amazing husband (who I also knew in college). Now normally, if I were hoofing it out of San Diego, I’d take the 5N to the 405N, etc. etc. But since I was out in Ramona it made more sense to take 15N and then cut over. I left early knowing it was an urban legend to think I’d be able to bypass the SoCal morning traffic (like none I’ve ever seen with the exception of the drive out of JFK, New York to Connecticut). As I approached each freeway that would take me over to the 5, I met up with a line of cars that looked like they were waiting for a ride at Disney Land (and had NOT heard of the Fast Ticket). By the time I hit Riverside, CA it occurred to me – “I’m close to Death Valley!” Now I admit, my “close” and yours maybe different, but with Death Valley only 3 hours away, it was now a must see!
California map I had in my car showing Death Valley
So here’s what I do when I head off on a spontaneous adventure when traveling. By that I mean, I’m heading home (or I guess anywhere), and I get this insane idea to head off in a different direction. If you’ve never tried this, I highly recommend it. Sometimes the things we do that are unplanned, become our most exciting adventures. So back to being spontaneous when you travel. With the advent of smart phones it’s pretty easy to plan on-the-fly. I pulled up Google, input hotels in Death Valley and found The Furnace Creek Resort. I called, yes they had rooms, and yes there were expensive. They also mentioned that there is a sister hotel called The Furnace Creek Ranch. Since I had been wearing my favorite pair of holy jeans with sneakers (sorry that I can’t give you a more fashionable vision of Photo Girl when she travels), I thought a place described as a “ranch” may be more suited for me on this particular trip. I checked and the ranch also had rooms (and was a lot less expensive). If you’re traveling with the spice of spontaneity, I can say that it’s always a good thing to know that you can get a room. Especially if you’re heading into an area that has a name that starts with “Death”. I got directions and began my 3 hour drive. I also sent a text to my family to let them know of the change of plans…my sister’s text back to me is below: Too funny Dana!!! But who wouldn’t want to go to Death Valley? 😉
Make sure you let your friends and family know where you’re going!
Death Valley is the largest national park south of Alaska, and is known for extremes: It is North America’s driest and hottest spot (with fewer than two inches/five centimeters of rainfall annually and a record high of 134°F), and has the lowest elevation on the continent—282 feet below sea level. Even with its extremes, the park still receives nearly a million visitors each year, me being one…!
I headed over to Barstow on 15N, then 127N and 190 NW. Along the way I will confess, I was starving and ate at Arby’s. I’d not been there in a while and I must say that their classic roast beef sandwich dipped in that glorious horseradish and BBQ sauce was amazing. And those curly fries. Not as good as bacon but close. Anyway, I always regret when I get a wild hair and do that, but I did, and it’s done. After dragging myself out of the bliss caused by the sandwich and fries, I got gas and headed off on highway 190 into the state park. As you drive into the park you’ll see a sign. It’s a MUST to have your picture taken! Because I was alone, I took a photo of myself which is below.
Here I am at the Death Valley welcome sign! Hi!!!!!
Also, once you drive past the sign you’ll need to look for a kiosk and pay an entry fee. You can use a credit card to do this. If the machine doesn’t work, you can also pay at the Welcome Center in Furnace Creek. You will need to place the receipt on your dashboard otherwise you will receive a ticket.
Kiosk in Death Valley where you pay your entry fee
Since both hotels are located on the 190 I stopped at the fancy one first, just to check it out. It’s nice and is a four diamond AAA which is always a good sign. But then let’s get back into the holy pair of jeans I was donning and the men’s Hanes white t-shirt (yes I know, the outfit just keeps getting better), so I got in my car and drove another mile down the road to The Ranch. As soon as I drove up, I was in love! The Furnace Creek Ranch is very quaint and I would highly recommend it. I will dedicate an entire blog to it including a number of photos. But for now make a note.
Travel Tips
So let’s get into the travel tips.
First you need a general idea of how Death Valley is laid out. Since I only knew I’d be there about 3 hours before I arrived, I knew nothing about the area. Here’s a map of where it is located in relation to Las Vegas, and then I’ll describe the key areas after this map. The city of Furnace Creek is where I stayed:
Map of where Death Valley is located in relation to Las Vegas, NV
Also, here is a link to a very detailed map which you’ll want to review before you get there. This link has a high-res version. You can also get a printout of the map at the Welcome Center: http://www.nps.gov/deva/planyourvisit/upload/DEVAmap1a.pdf
Detailed map of Death Valley
Warnings (Information from Death Valley National Park Website)
Many of Death Valley’s roads were built in the 1930s. They are narrow and serpentine and cannot be driven at high speed. The most dangerous thing in Death Valley is not the heat. It is the “single car rollover.”
Travel on the park’s hundreds of miles of backcountry roads requires the correct type of vehicle for the road conditions, a vehicle in good repair with all necessary tools and replacement parts, and some knowledge of driving on rough dirt, gravel and 4-wheel drive roads. Backcountry travel in the summer months, April through the middle of October, can be dangerous and also requires plenty of water and supplies stored in the vehicle and knowledge of how to survive a failed vehicle in desert summer conditions! Ask the Rangers.
Cell phones do not work in Death Valley! Do not depend on them. In some cases there is spotty reception, but dependence on a cell phone in an emergency situation can be fatal. Check with the Rangers for specific recommendations on travel safety.
Driving along the interior roads in Death Valley – very few cars will pass you in an hour!
Consider Taking These Items in Your Car – These are my suggestions, if you have ones to add please let me know.
Extra bottles of water – You can buy extra bottles at the General Store in Furnace Creek
Sneakers
Suntan lotion – with a high SPF – lather it on, face, arms, hands, etc.
Long sleeve shirt – although it’s hot, I wore one the entire time to keep the sun off my arms
Sun glasses
Books on CD – radio reception is not good and it can take a while to drive 15 miles when the speed limit bounces back and forth between 55 – 15mph
Blanket – although it was hot during the day, the nights were cool. Just in case you get stuck 😉
Snacks – anything that doesn’t melt or spoil. Jelly beans, Good and Plenty, beef jerky. Or if you’re healthy, apples, oranges
Map of the area
Cell phone – you don’t always have reception but occasionally you do get lucky
Program an ICE (In Case of Emergency) number in your phone. You should have this anyway, but if anything happens the police will look through your phone to find it.
Keep an extra car key in your pocket or tied under your car. Imagine, you get out of your car and lock your keys inside. When I travel I always do this.
If You are Traveling Alone
This is a good idea regardless, but especially important if you’re traveling alone. I had cell phone reception when I was in Furnace Creek, but otherwise it was nowhere to be found. I would highly recommend that you text your family when you head off to see one of the highlights and let them know where you’re going. Also, let them know when you get back. There really weren’t a lot of cars that passed me and if I got a flat tire, or got stuck it would be good for them to know which part of the park I was in.
Hours
Furnace Creek Visitor Center
Open Daily 8:00 am to 5:00 pm Pacific Time Phone (760) 786-3200
They can help you figure out what to see while you’re there. There’s a lot to see so prioritizing is critical.
Scotty’s Castle Visitor Center – more on this attraction in a later blog
Open Daily
Winter 8:45 am to 4:45 pm Pacific Time
Summer 9:30 am to 4:15 pm Pacific Time
(760) 786-2392 ext.231
I’ll provide more detail in a later blog but I really enjoyed visiting this castle.
Entrance Fee
Vehicle Entrance Fee
$20 for 7 Days
This permit allows all persons traveling with the permit holder in one single private, non-commercial vehicle (car/truck/van) to leave and re-enter the park as many times as they wish during the 7-day period from the date of purchase.
Other fees are noted in the link below.
Here are some past posts on Death Valley in case you missed them
If you’d like to purchase a print to remind you of this beautiful area, please click on “Contact”. My photography is printed on aluminum. Utilizing an advanced process which infuses dyes directly into the metal, the colors and saturation are really amazing. In addition, your print will be displayed using mount blocks which float the image ½ inch off the wall.
photogirltravels.com 